Winemaker's Journal by George Troquato

How Wines Age in Barrels


For centuries, vintners have known that aging in oak adds a finishing touch to their craft. Wine can spend as little as six or as much as 30 months in barrels before it is bottled. Given enough time, stability increases, astringency decreases, and the oak itself imparts desirable aromas and flavors. So then, what exactly happens in a barrel that improves wine so dramatically?

Barrel aging results from exposing wine to oxygen through two sources: the tiny pores of the wood and the bunghole during topping (adding wine to compensate for evaporation). This slow oxygenation is particularly affected by barrel size (60 U.S. gallons is considered ideal) and the thickness of wood.

Winemakers can choose from a variety of barrels that are seasoned (dried) and toasted in a range of styles. “Seasoning leaches out the harsh components,” says Winemaker George Troquato. He likes tight-grained wood that is air dried for 24 to 36 months and toasted medium-plus: American oak from Minnesota or Pennsylvania and French oak from the Allier Forest. “Tight grain imparts characteristics slowly,” says George. “It is more restrained and has more elegance.”

“American oak elevates mid-palate flavors, mouthfeel and finish,” says George. “It also has more vanillin.” French oak has great finesse and adds more tannins. “It highlights the purity of fruit in wine,” says George.

To achieve the desired effect, winemakers use barrels of specific age and in specific proportions. For his Central Coast Chardonnay, George uses American oak barrels (20% new, 80% two-and-three-year-old) that were seasoned for 24 months. Deciding how long to age the wine is another determining factor.

Learn more about how George blends our unique wines.

 

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